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What Should be in your Gun Dog First Aid Kit

What Should be in your Gun Dog First Aid Kit

A bird hunter tending to his bird hunting dog at his tailgate.

Dr. Gracey Welsh gives a veterinarian’s view on what should be in your gun dog first aid kit

Advice in this article is meant to help educate and prepare you, but should never substitute for a veterinary examination.  If you are concerned about something with your dog, please visit your veterinarian. This is article pertains to what should be in a gun dog first aid kit. 

I often get asked what the must-have items in a gun dog first aid kit are. With all the obstacles we face n the field from as common as barb wire, as challenging as a porcupine, or as obscure as a beaver. I hope this article proves helpful to people who have been considering this question. Here is a list of my must-haves:

  • Saline eye flush: This can be purchased over the counter and is good for flushing out eyes that may have picked up seeds or other debris while out in the cover.
  • Saline wound wash: This can also be purchased over the counter. It’s a great item for initial wound clean ups in the field. Many brands come in an aerosolized canisters that allow you to flush the wound with some force. This helps remove dirt and debris from the wound and is an essential first step at decontaminating a wound. I do not recommend any additives in the wound flush—just plain saline. Saline is better than water, because it is more physiologically similar to the fluid within the body. As a result, it’s gentler on the cells and will not cause further damage.
  • Bandage scissors: These are helpful in a variety of situations, whether it’s applying bandages or cutting away snags in a coat.
  • Hemostats: I usually carry a variety of sizes from small to large. These are my go-to tools for removing foreign objects (quills, thorns, and others), since they grasp the object firmly and pull.
  • Tick key: There are many commercial tick pullers out there (I like the ones that look like spoons with a nick in them). They’re great at removing embedded ticks. Not just part of the tick, but the whole tick.
  • Non-adherent pad: These are coated gauze pads which provide some absorbing action and are a great first layer for bandaging bleeding wounds. Since they don’t stick to the open skin, they peel away without causing further pain or damage. You can purchase them in bulk from many medical supply stores or drug stores.
  • Cast padding: This soft bulky material is the second layer in any bandage and is used to hold the non-adherent pad in place over a wound. Two to three layers of cast padding provide pressure and protection to an affected area.
  • Stretch gauze or ‘cling’ wrap: This is the third layer in an appropriate bandage. It provides more pressure and security to the previously applied cast padding. One layer is usually sufficient over the cast padding.
  • Vet wrap: This self adhering wrap is a literal lifesaver. It’s traditionally the fourth layer in a bandage application, but can also be used as a tourniquet or a sling for a limb. It’s uses are limitless…
  • Gauze squares: Helpful to stop bleeding, apply pressure, clean up blood, and provide extra padding.
  • Digital thermometer: In instances where heat stroke or hypothermia are possible, you’ll need to check your dog’s rectal temperature.
  • 1-inch medical tape: Like vet wrap, this is a must have.
  • Individual sterile lubricant packets: I use these for protecting dog wounds until we can address them more appropriately. After flushing, putting lubricant in a wound will keep out further debris until the wound can be further assessed. It can also make temperature taking more comfortable!
  • Benadryl tablets: Useful for allergic reactions in the field.
  • Hydrogen peroxide: I don’t recommend using this to clean wounds, as I prefer saline wash. However, this is good at cleaning up blood from hair and skin around the wound. Getting rid of all that dried blood will help you better assess wound size and depth. Hydrogen peroxide is also a good emergency emetic, if your dog ingests something potentially harmful. Ideally, you would only use hydrogen peroxide in this way under the direction of a veterinarian. Some poisons are more harmful if they come back up.
  • Honey packets: These are helpful for dogs who experience hypoglycemia or shock events in the field. They can be applied to the gums to provide a quick blood sugar boost.
  • Iodine scrub: Good for cleaning abrasions or wounds.
  • Latex gloves: Wear them to keep wounds clean as you bandage or assess them.
  • Mylar emergency blanket: Very helpful for dogs experiencing shock or hypothermia.
  • Instant Cold Pack: Provides relief to swollen or painful areas and can be activated on demand, becoming cold within minutes.
  • Flea/tick comb: Removes any bugs that your dog may have picked up.
  • Dawn dish soap: If your dog has an encounter with skunks or gets into a potentially toxic material such as oil, gas, or crop fertilizer, it’s a good idea to rinse him down in this. Some dangerous chemicals can soak into the skin; it’s best to not risk that.
  • Skin stapler: Not everyone feels comfortable using these on their dog, but they can be helpful to close large wounds. In most cases, however, a pressure bandage will do the trick. Note that if you close a wound in the field with a stapler, the staples should be removed as soon as you are out of the woods. After that, the wound should be properly cleaned and assessed. If it needs to be closed more permanently, do it under the sterile conditions of a veterinary hospital. A skin stapler is not a replacement for a vet visit!
  • Veterinary first aid book: A good go-to guide for help during common situations. There are many respectable books on the market to choose from.
  • Emergency phone number: Make sure that you have the phone number of your veterinarian and the closest emergency veterinarians on hand. If you’re hunting in new places, this should always be part of your research. Find out where veterinarians are located and if they will see new clients on an emergency basis. Not all will.

You may have noticed that I did not list aspirin. In my professional opinion, there are almost no circumstances where giving your dog aspirin is necessary. Especially in an emergency situation. Aspirin can be toxic to dogs and can interfere with other drugs that may need to be given in a veterinary setting.

I will admit that I don’t carry all of this with me when in the field. Rather, it lives in a gun dog first aid kit in the back of the truck. It’s best to carry some small supplies with you, like a roll of vet wrap or gauze. That way, you can tackle issues that arise more immediately until you get back to the truck.

Listen: Field First Aid and Being Prepared with Dr. Dustin Babler – Project Upland Podcast Episode #58

Spending time to familiarize yourself with common veterinary emergencies and appropriate care—before you are faced with emergency—can save you time and your dog’s life. Ask your trusted veterinarian for their advice on common emergencies. Or, take the time to read a veterinary first aid book. Some locations regularly host dog first aid classes.

View Comments (6)
  • great basic information but some details or examples for the layperson would have been helpful i.e. cast padding, insta cold packs?

    • Mark thanks for the feedback! Sometimes I forget what people may or may not know! If you have questions about these items shoot me an email and I’ll try to improve on this for future articles!!

  • Very good advice. I would add a liquid bandage product as well. It does a good job on a cut pad. It dries quickly, so I can apply several layers in a few minutes.

  • Thank you! I was just restocking my kit and already had everything on your list except Dawn Soap! I also carry a glucometer, Little Tummies (for aerophagia / bloat), Cerenia and a leatherman type tool. For future articles, another idea would be how to make a make shift muzzle (from a lead or piece of cling gauze) and print out location to nearest emergency vet before you are out of cell range.

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